A Method
of Muzzle Training
By
Louise Hoelscher, POETA Whippets
When I
introduce my pups to racing, I want their focus to be on the lure,
not on
the muzzle that's strapped to their heads, and not on the noisy
enclosed
starting boxes. So I break up race training into three components:
muzzle
training, box training, and chasing the lure with focus. Only when all
three
components have been taught separately do I combine them.
This is
how I introduce the muzzle to a dog (usually around 5-6 months old).
Using a
plastic basket type muzzle, I open the strap and place the front of
the
muzzle into the palm of my hand. I take a small piece of roast beef (or
some
other tasty morsel), show it to the dog and then drop it into the muzzle
(and
the palm of my hand against the muzzle). I hold the muzzle towards the
dog
without pushing it at him. I let the dog poke his nose into the muzzle
to get
the treat. At this point I am not touching the dog and I am not pushing
the
muzzle onto his nose. It's his choice to go get the treat. I do this several
times
until the dog is eagerly reaching in for his treat.
For the
next step I hold the muzzle up without a treat inside and let the dog
poke
his nose in or I gently slide the muzzle over the dog's nose, and the
instant
his nose is all the way in, I start pushing a treat through the front
for him
to take. I will push several treats through the front, one after the
other
as quickly as I can as long as he keeps his nose in.
At the
next muzzle training session, I will repeat the above a couple of
times.
Once I feel the dog is very comfortable with this game, I will slide
the
strap on behind his ears and then feed through the front of the muzzle
again,
one treat after the other so that he doesn't fuss. It's important to
start
feeding before the dog has a chance to start fussing. After 5-6 treats,
I
quickly remove the muzzle and give him one last treat for playing the game.
At
every subsequent training session I leave the muzzle on for a little longer
than
the previous time, but I always continue to feed so that the dog never
has a
chance to fuss.
The
last step is waiting in between treats, first for a few seconds, then
longer
and longer, until the dog can wear the muzzle for several minutes
without
pawing at it. It's important throughout this training to never feed
when
the dog is pawing at the muzzle. No fussing is what gets rewarded.
If the
dog does fuss and paw at the muzzle I simply wait until he stops
and as
soon as he does stop I say "good" or "yes" and start
feeding
again.
Eventually
I can leave the muzzle on for quite awhile and the dog is
happy
to be wearing it because he knows a treat will follow.
The
dogs I have trained using this method see a muzzle and jam their
noses
right in.